Thursday, 7 April 2016

Days 3 and 4

This day could have been quite treacherous, and it was in parts. Continuous cold rain, and muddy tracks on some steep descents. After the mid walk stop at an unremarkable village, the advice was "in the case of rain take the road" and this we did, although the French can be carefree when it advice.

The walk ended in at the bottom of spectacular gorge at Monistrol D'Allier. To cross the river, just pass the still active 1926 Hydro Electric Power Station, we used Pont Eiffel. A quite picturesque town from a distance, and a good evening meal. Pierre as is often the case was in good form. The catholic women not seen before or since, were notable by waking early and praying quietly but audibly in bed before rising.

The next day was a walk straight after breakfast up out of the gorge from 600 m to 1,100 m, then after 24 km getting to Le Villeret. Excellent Gite d'Etape with Pierre, again, 3 Belgium women, and a mother and daughter from Switzerland. What does a Swiss mother do each year when her 16 yr old daughter has 2 weeks school holiday? Go for a 400 km walk and even discuss the concept of "too big" with me in remote south France, after comments about my phone.

There was an interesting conversation implicitly about capitalism and the limits or inadequacy of relying on financial transactions. For example if you are retired and no longer have access to the IT support services at the office to maintain your home computers, some other ongoing arrangement is necessary. One very successful arrangement is to always have generous supplies of Monkey 47 on hand. This ensures enthusiastic attendance, on demand, of skilled French IT technicians.

 Day 4 was my coldest day in all the years I have been walking in Europe. The temperature around 5-6 degrees all day, mostly overcast, and a little rain early. 21 kms without stopping. Reached Saint Alban sur Limagnole at 1,200 m. This town gives all the signs of being asleep. Which means not much to say except most walkers were starving on arrival, nothing of note was open for lunch. I enjoyed sharing a block of local cheese with the 3 Belgium women. They are beer drinkers, perhaps because their country is not big on vineyards.   Tomorrow will be slightly higher in elevation and possibly only 4 degrees. After that still 2 more days at this elevation with the cold spell continuing, before the rapid descent to a different world, and a different tempo to the day.

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