to Decazeville

• This town was a critical source of steel pipes during World War 1. Alas, the factory was closed in 1985 and the population has declined from 14,000 to 6,000. Another example of deserted France. Most pilgrims prefer not to stop and walk to the next town of Livinhac de Haut. Curious as Livinhac has not declined - it was never anywhere to decline from. I had walked 29 kms from Senergues to Decazeville and that was far enough. Host Thiery was all you need for regional food and hospitality, with, by chance, Pierre again and a few others including 2 young German women. Thiery was obviously entranced by them and the Germans had the run of his otherwise private kitchen. Pierre à gauche, Thiery à droit.

• On the way to Decazeville was the iconic ville of Conques. Nearly everyone stops here. I had been twice before so paused only for pastries (there was an arduous and long afternoon ahead), and to change into fresh socks.

 

• The climb out of the valley in which Conque is situated was made more difficult by the now frequent muddy track, and in this case very steep. As is quite common there is an alternative quiet and shorter road and much faster than the treacherous track. And so that was the pattern of the 20 kms to Decazeville where Thiery had a cold beer waiting, and the German girls provided fresh chocolate cake.

 

• Among the guests were a Brazilian couple. She got annoyed with him when he got drunk, even though he has the empathy to get up the next morning and give her a glass of coke in bed to start her metabolism. You can learn a few things along the way!

 

• Previously I had learnt about a walker in a prior year seen sitting having lunch in just a kilt (and probably sandals without socks). Apparently the kilt was only worn in towns or whilst having meals (his formal wear) as he usually walked all the way to Santiago naked.